Friday, August 21, 2015

Ghost Month 鬼月 and other developments


Dear John by M.O.V.E Theatre
Post the devastation of Typhoon Soudlor the Taipei street clean up happened rapidly and efficiently, although there are now strange ‘gaps’ where once certain trees stood or branches used to be. Following on the theme of ‘now you see me now you don’t’, my research and reflection on all things ‘ghostly’ continues… 
Here is Taiwan, and throughout much of Asia, ‘hauntings’, it seems, are an inevitable part of existence. That shadowy world where all that is unresolved from life, its histories, stories, and conflicts dwell…Taking that further, all we won’t and don’t deal with, be it people, politics, place…or the past (make that skeletons various). For the superstitious, ‘they’ are merely waiting to reach out and grab us if we are caught out unawares, and 'they' must be appeased…but perhaps ‘they’ have us in their grip in ways we can only begin to imagine…but more on Ghost’s later…
The clean up!
Here at the TAV most of us are busy preparing for our resident artist joint exhibition False Start: Situational Exploratorium that opens on August 28. I will be exhibiting 4 dance films (Standing Bird, Standing Bird 2, The Drover’s Wives & Mermaid X) under the title: Through the Eye of the Lens: Dance on film - video explorations and experimentation with physical narratives (2008-15). As part of the exhibition program my current work in progress The Ghost Project Jhih (Dance + Theatre + Film) will be showcased on September 18 in a performance presentation followed by an artist talk/forum facilitated by exhibition curator Yen-Yi Lee. 
Yen-Yi Lee

This will be the culmination of my residency project that I have been researching and developing around stories, mythologies and more broadly the theme of Ghosts, exploring the concept of absence/presence and ‘haunted’ histories. I am also excited to be making a short radio documentary for ABC Radio who have commissioned sound artist Hsu Yen-ting (Asialink resident Fremantle Arts Centre) and myself to make a short feature currently titled: Hungry Ghost Month in Taiwan: Taiwanese Ghosts and modern day hauntings for their Earshot program. I will be posting more about the making of this soon.Recent weeks have been very much about research and exploring practice and methodology in addition to experiencing the diverse development processes of others. I have run 3 workshops under the title PhysicalNarratives:Exploring contemporary dance/theatre creation & practice. This has proved a great introduction enabling me to share with local performers, performance makers and directors, and we will continue working together exploring and developing The Ghost Project over the coming weeks. (see side page for more workshop pix)

I enjoyed sitting in with local Taiwanese Contemporary dance theatre company Horse who were running a sound based movement workshop here at TAV with sound designer/composer Yannick Dauby. I also went out to Taiwan University of Arts to see an open Rehearsal of M.O.V.E Theatre’s Dear John, a remount of a work that will be coming to the OZ Asia Festival later this year. This interdisciplinary work is an inventive, subtle, and entrancing encounter of the senses. Inspired by the music of composer John Cage and utilising new (and ‘old’) technologies the team generate sound, light and movement in this interactive performance installation. The audience freely move and engage with the various elements of this playful sound lab that seamlessly incorporates original live mainly percussive instrumentation, abstract movement and shadow play amongst its inventive features. A magical experience and one of the most interesting and stimulating performances I have attended to date here in Taipei. 

We also had the chance to catch up with Australian Director/producer Leisa Shelton (Fragment 31) and the Taipei Dance X-Change company who are here to collaborate and present their 3 x 3 new works program for the Taipei Arts Festival (post Dance Massive).TAV artists mixed with Treasure Hill artists in an evening of welcome and creative conversation, and we are looking forward to seeing their show and spending some more time together over this month. 
TAV & THV Resident Artists X-Change
TAV resident artists eteam held an in studio first time informal showing so we could view their self-produced feature length film Space Delay. This work takes the form of a video documentary/diary/performance of their strange and dream-like road trip in the US in search of land they had bought on e-bay, (but had never received the deeds to). This is an in-the-moment recorded experience of some pretty dodgy hotels and restaurants that felt like location film-sets as they ‘stalked’ these evasive landowners across the country. The journey was accompanied by narrated philosophical reflections on absence and presence, bizarre coincidences, and includes text from Hitchcock’s film Vertigo through to Bob Dylan amongst other quoted sources. Sitting with beer in hand on the floor in a Taipei studio it felt pretty surreal viewing!! It was great to attend their artist talk later in the week to discover more about their unique process and methodology. They never did track down the family whose property they bought, but it certainly proved great material for a rich and searching film about contemporary identity, the online community, privacy and surveillance.
eteam Artist talk
I have been continuing my walking, hiking and travels, locally visiting Lin An Tai House (one of the oldest still existing in Taipei) and the busy Xingtian temple as well as the historic hot spring town of Beitou, just out of Taipei. (view side page Taipei Tourist for more info & pix
Xingtian Temple

Lin An Tai House
Beitou Hot Spring (and me)
Then traveling further afield I undertook a short 3 day adventure to Hong Kong and ferried across to the historic Portuguese port settlement now casino land of Macau. I was here for meetings and to witness the absolute eye-popping circus-theatrical extravaganza of Dragone’s House of Dancing Water. Seated with a courtesy Moet in hand, there is no subtlety to this superb spectacle. Its routinely water-drenched audience (in complimentary ponchos) lapped up this high energy performance where ship-wrecks, floating pontoons and temples appear and disappear into water that jets, spurts, floods, and then drains on cue across the show. A ‘flabbily’ loose love story involving the predictable struggle of good versus evil in their customary power battle sees lovers re-united and, as a contemporary twist, the once ‘poor’ young man from ‘China’ triumphs as the powerful ‘new’ ruler of this magical world. It is wonderful and wild and outrageous in equal measure…a hanging human chandelier with about 10 aerialist duos moving in well-oiled synchronicity is seriously gob-smacking, and motorbikes flying through the air above you…Why not? Any connection to anything in the storyline? Well no one seemed to mind or think it mattered all that much. An unforgettable experience in every way imaginable!!
Taipa, Macau - Casino world, a city of contrasts
Town Square, Old Macau
Ruins of St. Paul, Macau

And meanwhile Hungry Ghost Month has begun…..
With roots in Buddhism, the Hungry Ghost Festival is a time of honouring ancestors and appeasing the ’hungry’ ghosts or malevolent spirits (also called ‘Good Brethren’) that wander in the world of the living when the ‘Gates of Hell’ are opened once a year. Religion and belief in Taiwan is a mix of Buddhism, Taoism and Chinese folklore, and the Taiwanese are considered a particularly superstitious people. "87% of office workers said to believe in Ghosts." (China Post) Significantly this honouring of the ‘hungry ‘ ghost it is based on a widespread belief throughout Asia that a person’s spirit continues to exist after the death of the physical body, and that they are capable of affecting the lives of the living for either ‘good’ or ‘bad’.

So what’s a Hungry ghost?

The hungry ghosts are ancestors not given a proper funeral or burial, or who have no family to maintain ancestor veneration/worship ie: make offerings to them on a regular basis. They may have died a violent or ‘unhappy’ death. Suicide, accident or drowning…interestingly, they may also be ‘unmarried women’, who are viewed as particularly ‘troublesome spirits’ who tend to exist in this limbo land as they are unattached and unable to be looked after by family. If a ghost is ‘unhappy’ in the afterlife it is believed that they have the ability to influence the lives of the living by bringing them bad luck.

These Gates of Hell are opened once a year during the Hungry Ghost Month and all the lost and hungry ghosts of hell are free to roam the living world. To appease these lost souls and to prevent them from causing the living harm or injury (or dragging them back into the underworld), people put food out for the ghosts to enjoy. Elaborate ceremonies and rituals are also performed to please the ghosts. They are often called ‘hungry’ ghosts as they cannot swallow. Ghosts are said to be recognised by their dishevelled hair, hem-less garments, lack of a shadow or footprint, a red glow, short-sightedness, fiery lips and mouth. (Not hard to miss!)

This year ‘Ghost Month’ in Taiwan will run from August 14 to September 12 with key activities around 27 – 30 August. Here’s a extensive list of some of the many taboos I have discovered around Ghost Month.
Offering table & burning of paper money outside local boutique

10 or more things to avoid in Ghost Month

1. Start a relationship, get engaged or married. (all will end badly!)
2. Do not celebrate a birthday, a funeral or have a baby or undergo any form of surgery.  (hmmm could be challenging)
3. Do not start a business, move or buy a house or car, travel and yes…this has an actual downturn effect on the local economy.
4. Do not swim…ghosts live/hide out in water.
5. Do not leave wet clothes hanging outside overnight. (Ghosts are known to hop inside of the clothes)
6. Do not sleep with dishevelled (messy) hair (as you may be mistaken as one of them)
7. Avoid saying the word ‘ghost’…do not say out loud where you live, sing or whistle, or play a tin whistle or stay out after dark …(all could attract unwanted attention)
8. Don’t wear red (it attracts ghosts) or black (ghost’s will think you are one of them and they are attracted to these colours)
9. Don’t step on or pick up offerings, or anything you see on the ground…especially money (they may have put it there to catch you) and keep away from walls and also trees as ghosts ‘stick’ to them.
10. Don’t spit, stare at a fire, or open an umbrella at night! And don’t turn around when someone taps you on the shoulder.


Do:
    * Burn incense and light candles and make special offerings of prayers and food/drink for ‘hungry ghosts’ /lost souls and deceased relatives as gesture of support/care.You can often see appearing specially set tables outside shops and businesses.
    * Burn ritual joss paper money ‘hell bank notes’ and ‘goods’ (usually paper mache copies of cars, houses etc.) to ‘please’ the ghosts. Burning is how items are sent to the spirit world.
    * Hold a feast on the 14th day of the 7 lunar month and light lanterns to show the ghosts the way back to Hades/hell/the 'other' place.
    * Give a special and often colourful live performance (opera etc) and keep a front row of seats empty so the ghosts have somewhere to sit.
    * Maintain place settings at your dinner table for those who might want to come and eat with you.

      Now on Ghost Brides, Ghost weddings…and more, you will need to read my next posting….

      Undertaking a residency is a rich and wonderful experience on so many levels…but it wouldn’t be worth it if it didn’t have its various challenges too…
      When I finish this letter I will go back in the studio and wonder yet again:
      What on earth am I doing? Fortunately one step leads to another, but
      they are not like words in a sentence making sense.
      (Geoffrey De Groen - painter)
      TAV Workshop participant

      Saturday, August 8, 2015

      Wild weather, Pandas, participatory art & puppets


      Puppet Carved head - Taiyuan Asian Puppet Theatre Musuem
      When I started this blog I was bunkering in for my second typhoon..that's when the city closes down, and I mean really closes down. No transport services, all offices shut their doors, pot plants get placed on their sides, trees are tied down, windows are taped with crosses, and I am wondering if my scheduled two-day masterclass is going to be postponed...The first typhoon I experienced wasn't too bad, so part of me wonders what the fuss is all about...Then within twenty four hours it all starts....

      This is Summer in Taiwan with the weather ricocheting from pretty hot to very hot, with humidity moving between 40 - 70 % depending on the day. Umbrellas will be used in a single day for sunshade (most women avoid sun like the plague, as it makes you 'brown') and then for torrential rain. I eventually understood why so many shoe stores sell fully plastic shoes, boots, and sandals (which I initially thought kind of odd in Summer), and its because whenever it rains there is a serious amount of water. Most people have a diverse collection of wet-weather gear, and there are also fashion lines in raincoats and the like.
      Meanwhile my roof has again sprung a leak (it has its own red bin bucket at this moment) and there is an occasional unexplained drip that periodically lands in the middle of my studio floor...for no reason that I can see. Weather, gotta love it...or be completely blown away by it...more about our Typhoon experience later...

      This last week or so has been a balancing act between writing, research and break out day trips to get time out from the city. Had some fun in the sun (yep it was a hot one) with TAV artists Helene & Hyangro visiting Taipei Zoo and us experiencing our first Pandas (joyous). Then up and away onto Maokong via a 4.2 km floating Gondola. Here we shared a lazy lunch at one of the many tea houses gazing over the valley. This was followed by a seriously sweaty trek to Jinjhe Cave temple embedded high up in the mountain side next to a water fall. Hot work in amongst a symphony of butterflies, but eventually we come across this magical setting. We got lost on the way back after taking one of those detours you shouldn't take, but all up it was a great day. Check out side page to read more.
      Here's lookin' at you...

      Post Breakfast nap
      Our Gondola
      Yep, its pretty cool.
      Over the mountains
      Hard work Hyangro - there is a lot of climbing up

      Hiking Helene

      Temple at Jinjhe Cave
      Later in the week a solo reconnaissance via train to the faded port city of Keelung provides a day of contemplation. I wander up and down its narrow alleyways and through the historic Miaokou Night market, one of the most famous in Taiwan. It was good to take a look round prior to its Ghost Month festivities that will kick off in a few weeks time. Keelung is a focus town for various events to appease those ‘hungry ghosts’, or 'good brethren' as they are commonly known. I’m planning to come back and witness some of this unique celebration, so watch out for future Ghost hunting posts!
      Temple preparations underway at Zhongsheng Park for Ghost Month celebrations
      Keelung laneway
      Back in Taipei I visit the Museum of Fine Arts and experience the New York based artist Lee Mingwei’s wonderful and absorbing exhibition Lee Mingwei and His relations: The Art of Participation – seeing, conversing, gift-giving, writing, dining and getting connected to the world. (longest title ever) which is touring Asia at present. Lee is a world-renowned conceptual artist producing different participatory art projects to highlight the ‘public’ and ‘social’ aspects of Art. Moving beyond our role as viewers we find ourselves becoming invited to become participants intervening in the artists projects. Projects in this exhibition included; The Mending Project, the Sleeping Project, The Dining project and involved exactly what the title states, yet there is a gentle, non-confrontational approach and a certain purity to the aesthetic of the various stagings and installations. Another exhibition Formosa in Formation featuring selected works from the MFA collection 1895 – 1947, a time of sweeping change in Taiwan, was a more formal and overall less appealing body of works. See Artworks side page for more exhibition pix
      The Art of Participation
      The Writing Project
      The Museum of Fine Arts is all white walls and glass, an impressive and spacious edifice set in Expo Park which features an array of quirky designed, shaped and decorated pavilions that were clearly the ‘thing’ in 2010 (when the Expo opened). You can wander through and check out the Taiwan Excellence Pavilion, Pavilion of Aroma and Flowers, Pavilion of Taipei Robot and others..a total contrast to my next stop TheTaiyuan Asian Puppet Theatre Museum. Tucked down lane ways in the heart of the historic Dihua quarter this Museum is reached via a single entrance just off the street. It has four tightly squeezed floors of exhibits reached by one of the narrowest and vertical of stairways I have ever climbed. The Museum is dedicated to the preservation and promotion of traditional Asian puppet cultures and has a collection of over 10,000 Asian puppets, one of the most complete collections of Asian puppets in the world. The Museum hosts an educational centre, a small puppet theatre and a full functioning puppetry workshop. Of course incomparable to our own Spare Parts Puppet Theatre in Fremantle it was rather lovely and had a warm, much loved feel to the place, a secret hidden away from most of the tourist crowds. It is a little run down, there were only about 60 or so puppets on display and unfortunately there are no shows currently in performance. Yet, the early Chinese hand puppets, so exquisitely and expressively carved, won my heart. Their age and beauty speak of stories I can only imagine, and these small, delicately crafted and painted wooden hand puppets are still popular entertainment today. There was also various small scale erected wooden play stages and aged chests that would have made their way from town to town all those years ago. I come away with several ‘newer’ versions bought and tucked into my bags. Irresistible. Check out side page for more images of Dihua along with puppet pix.
      Three 'wise' men...
      Personal favourite

      The Taipei Arts Festival has also kicked off. A performance based Festival funded by the City of Taipei it sensibly stages performances Thurs - Sunday each week for just over 5 weeks, and is scheduled so there are not too many clashes. Up and coming shows include works form France, Germany, Japan & Australia, alongside local productions.Taipei Fringe then commences on the 23 August and runs until 13 September, proudly claiming ‘130 teams with 543 sessions’. This is definitely an endurance event with a pretty eclectic program dotted around the city. As part of the opening weekend of TAF I went along to see another free contemporary dance event staged in a public park (Taipei is definitely on to something) and for the most part I enjoyed the presentation. The New Co-Choreographer Program produces by Memiage Dance invites leading Taiwanese dancers working abroad to come and create individual solo works in the style of their current company. The artists also share something of their experiences working overseas and are interviewed by the host. In addition there was some audience participation in form of mock auditions. This involved the dancers taking volunteers through imaginary auditions for their companies & then later improvising with them. For me these moments felt a bit ‘So You Think You Can Dance' in terms of the 'lame' format, but the dancers own created works were diverse, eclectic and powerful. The companies they represented include Akram Khan, & Bill T Jones & Company. From the framing of the event and recent experiences it is clear there is a real local pride and engagement with contemporary dance as an art form. It has a strong post-war history with many current senior local choreographers studying in the US, and then bringing that training home. There are now several tertiary-based courses here with numerous graduates working nationally and internationally. Currently there are 30 dance companies in Taiwan and this does not include the many internationally successful independent solo artists such as Su Wen Chi (who I am a particular fan of). 
      Daan Park TAF Performance
      The TAV also got into some active artist participation of its own with a group Dumpling making (and eating) session. Staff and interns were joined by Taipei Artist Village and Treasure Hill based residents. Much fun and mess making was had devising our own 'variations' with a healthy and 'creative' post-meal discussion over a preference for steamed versus fried!   
      Team dumpling

      Hyangro in action




      Significantly for me this week saw the realisation of one of my first creative collaborations undertaken here in Taipei. After several meetings, discussions and emails, local artist and calligrapher Tseng Ting Yu along with translator Li Hui Huang spent an incredible and productive evening with me at TAV studio 302. I had written a text for my project that Li Hui then translated into Mandarin. Ting re-interpreted this translation into his own adapted form of the ancient art of calligraphy. I filmed him at work and several hours later we had a stamped and signed version we were both satisfied with.Ting even made me have a go at painting an adaptation of his text..hilarious..Check out side page for images from our session including this fab piece of work!
       
      Filming


      Mesmerising

      Final result.
      Footage from this session, the written translation, and the resulting calligraphy will form the basis of the next stage of The Ghost Project. I plan to work with local performers on creating a movement vocabulary from this material...It is always quietly thrilling to see your words 'come alive', its why I choose to write for performance. Yet this was a totally new experience, a performance of a different kind. As I watched this artist at work I felt awe at his focus and his control as he 'danced' the text onto the page...
      Here is the translated text:

      我的心是片虛無
      My heart is a void
      它是鏡
      It is a mirror
      看見自己的臉
      See in my face
      厭惡和恐懼
      Loathing and horror
      在鬼域中
      In the world of ghosts
      被夢囚禁
      Prisoned by dreams
      未知仍未知
      Unknown remains unknown (but)
      只要你記得
      As long as you remember (me)
      我就從未消逝
      I will never disappear

      Now, back to the Typhoon..
      The temperature drops, the wind lifts, windows rattle and the trees begin to sway...and then? It's dark, the windows are now shuddering and it's too noisy to sleep as the Typhoon rolls on in.There is torrential rain, and more wind, and trees are bent over and breaking, roof pieces lift off and scud down the street, scooters over-turn, umbrellas are ripped and wrenched from your hands, rain water is streaming and flooding into everywhere...Alarms go off, sirens are screaming, and loud speaker instructions in Chinese are calling out to us to evacuate. It's in the middle of the night and as we close our electronically operated doors we have no idea it will be hours before we will return to our studios. Every room seems to be dripping, and sand bags are not stopping the steady flow of water into studios and offices. We huddle in the VIP room and wish we had brought more clothes, phones etc..and me, sensible footwear. Although barefoot and now soaked I do have my Handbag! The storm and winds rage on as we quietly chat and watch via laptop Typhoon Soudelor weave a devastating path across the country. Mid-morning we brave the chaotic streets to a 7-11 for coffee & food. We eventually get keys that will return us to our rooms, all a little shell-shocked at the degree of impact...Four people have died...and I learn that a Typhoon is not something to be ignored or ever to be taken lightly... 
      View from my balcony
      A flooded studio
      Out Front